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Memoirs of a beginner surfer: 6 tips for anyone starting out

I have been learning to surf for the past 4 years and would still call myself a beginner. I think as learners (and especially as women) we put a lot of pressure on ourselves to do well and are so worried about looking silly or getting in the way of others.

 

I was 27 when I started to learn how to surf and had a few preconceptions about how it would go and definitely hit a few road blocks along the way. Once you start, you don’t look back and I can’t recommend it enough.

 

Here are a few of my tips for anyone starting out or thinking of giving it a go.

 

1. You can surf at any age

 

I mistakenly thought that at 27, I was too late to the game but I was surprised to see such a range in the water; different ages and abilities, all having equal fun. Surfing is for anyone! I’ve seen men and women in their seventies cruising along at Fistral beach, I’ve seen a man in a wheelchair catching waves at The Wave in Bristol, I saw a little girl SHRED at Pipeline and she couldn’t have been older than 3! Age is just a number- don’t let it hold you back.

 

2. Surfing is for any size

 

Surf shops and magazines (although they are getting better) mostly portray the same ‘look’ for a surfer girl. Finding a wetsuit to suit my shape was really hard. An assistant in one surf shop even said to me “you’re going to find it hard to get a wetsuit as you have a big chest and short legs.” I was so embarrassed and just wanted to give up there and then. Bo Stanley and Elizabeth Sneed (curverysurfgirl) were both big motivators and inspiration for me during this time. I managed to shake off that comment and started to work on myself, not my physical shape, but my attitude. I looked at pictures of myself on waves and where I would have only noticed my tummy rolls, I saw the biggest smile on my face. Everyone is having too much fun on their own journey to worry about what you look like, so don’t give it a second thought.

 

3. Foamies are your friends

 

No matter how bulky they are to carry and how kooky you think you might look – go with the foamie my friend. You will catch more waves and have so much more fun. You can hire these from surf schools if you don’t have your own.

 

 

4. Know the etiquette

 

Turns out there’s a few rules to follow when you’re in the water. Don’t stress about this too much, everyone makes mistakes and you’re bound to end up getting in someone’s way. Most waves in the UK are ‘party waves’ (where multiple people catch one wave) so knowing who has priority is really important. This not only is good surfing etiquette, but it will also keep you (and others around you) safe.

 

5. Find your crew

 

The most fun I’ve ever had was during a surf lesson with my girlfriends. We hired boards and got in with an instructor and it just took all the planning and worry about safety away. We then started our own little surf girl gang and meet up regularly to go for a paddle. We are probably the loudest people in the water, cheering each other on and shouting when we see each other get a good wave. Being surrounded by friends when you’re out in the water is priceless. Try signing up for a lesson with a surf school or try to find a group on social media that you could join. I’ve had lessons and group surfs with @womenandwaves @thequeersurfclub @wavewahines and @fistralsurfschool and they were all amazing.

 

 

6. Enjoy yourself

 

Just because you didn’t stand up doesn’t mean you had a bad session. Time in the water is never time wasted. Sometimes when its flat I just go for a paddle on my board, as long as I’m in the ocean; I’m happy. The saying goes “the best surfer is the one having the most fun”. So whether your catching waves in the white water, lying on your belly or just paddling about – enjoy every moment and don’t give up!

 

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  • Jo is a cold water surfer living in Cornwall, the south coast of the UK. She's been learning to surf for about 5 years, and also loves wild swimming.